Oregon: 150 Years in 2009 (7 / 8)
(A report conducted in July 2008 (Text and photos by Bernard Jacqmin)
Coast
"Ocean in sight! O joy! "Clark wrote in his diary after the incredible adventure that had just accomplished. The enthusiasm that had prevailed for him and his companions by going to the shores of the Pacific was transformed into a fast yet cruel disillusionment. In the same book we read a bit further: "At 2 o'clock, the tide came in the form of huge waves and a terrible wind. She refloated the trees ... and began to chase them here and there ... All the penalties, our fullest attention, allowed just keep our canoe being crushed by monstrous trunks including many measured nearly 60 meters long and 1 to 2 meters wide ... The logs on which we sleep go awry at every tide. Rain falls throughout the day. We wet our bedding also, and much of our equipment. ... Nothing to eat except fish bludgeoned "
almost apocalyptic vision of this coastal Northwest is not in itself surprising . This side knows it not one of the most violent surf of the world. In winter, storms launch waves against the cliffs above 6 meters high and the resulting shock is comparable to the impact of a car launched against a wall at 150 miles an hour! From Japan, no barrier reef or island groups do not break the shock of the waves pushed by the wind on what is regarded as a longer stretch of ocean in the northern hemisphere.
Nevertheless, this shore, from Astoria to Florence and dunes beyond, to California, is one of the most beautiful and wild West Coast. Ports and small towns along the beach in no way misrepresent the rugged beauty of this region.
Astoria, on the border of the State of Washington, and the end of the epic Lewis and Clark kept moreover, who takes the time to dawdle, somewhat old-fashioned charm with its its steep streets and Victorian facades they say the best after those of San Francisco. Directors like Richard Donner (The Goonies) or Ivan Reitmann (Kindergarten Cop) have seen the benefits they can derive from these key sets-to-door by integrating them into their films (at the point that they often become the most interesting!) 
Founded in 1811 by a fur trader named John Astor, Astoria was also the first village worthy of the name of the West Coast of the United States. Its strategic location, since both located at the mouth of the Columbia River and along the ocean-brought him to the heroic reputation of a great trading port. Now inhabited by only about ten thousand souls, the town air somewhat dormant despite the start of some projects for tourism. Anyway, the town is more than ever a crossing point forced the West Coast for that goes to the state of Washington through the famous Astoria Bridge. Crossing the Columbia River, forming an arc of about 7 km, this work of art is also considered one of the most remarkable of the United States.
If continued, twenty miles south, still along the coast, we arrive at the small town of Cannon Beach. The place is certainly a classic local travel agencies but how not to fall in love with this small seaside town, its smart bungalows beachfront and especially its beach strewn with rocks as impressive, among others, the Haystack Rock? A kind of sugarloaf emerging at 70 meters above the waves. By itself, this is an authentic rock mass reservoir of life which frolic joyfully hermit crabs and sea stars, gulls and cormorants, puffins and ducks, harlequins.
Early this morning at low tide, the fog still shrouded the contours of the imposing monument. In retreating, the sea had left puddles all around and a blue light wind waves hemming a surprise scum dazzling. At this early hour, the beach was still deserted, or almost as in the distance, facing the sea, a young woman knelt and prayed. Who knows, maybe it was an incantation to the attention of a wyakin, one of the odd guardian angels that regularly referred the Nez Perce as they felt a threat or were facing a major test . Perhaps, in this case, an impending tsunami?! Anyway, everything here reminds this possibility and a clear signal, even on the beach, clearly indicates that the area may be subject to such phenomenon and it is therefore not expected to borrow this or that road where, if any, the ocean rages.
An ocean which definitely leaves no respite nor the inhabitants of the coast or to the sailors who crossed off. God thank you, they have them valuable allies in their struggle against the elements. They are nicknamed the sentinels of Oregon. These are nine lighthouses, the border with Washington to California illuminate the night and prevent claims pitfalls. These lighthouses, designed and constructed between 1870 and 1896 by U.S. Army engineers are now part of the historical and architectural heritage of the state. All have their own style, their history, their amazing stories. Like Tillamook Rock.
Arnold, fisherman Viking to physical and incidentally owner of the fish of Yachats likes telling that around the lantern of this lighthouse, built on an island basalt about 1 miles off Cannon Beach, we had to put a fence to protect the windows against the rocks thrown into the air by the whim of the waves. Must clarify that the lantern of this lighthouse is located 42 meters above the waves! During a storm in the early twentieth century, we remember that a block of 65 pounds was thrown over 30 meters tall. He fell on the keeper's house and burst in the roof, leaving a hole six meters out. Except for the walls, almost the entire house was destroyed.
Today the lighthouse, rightly nicknamed "Terrible Tilly" is a private property and for that stunning vocation columbarium and receives only occasionally visited by people coming specifically to deposit the ashes of a loved one. One can easily imagine the atmosphere that should prevail on the rock day of the funeral!
Other lighthouses Oregonians have experienced conversions less austere. That of Heceta Head, for example, where the keeper's house has it been transformed into a charming bed and breakfast! The place is also a unique vantage point for that is involved in the observation of seabirds nesting on the many rocks scattered just off the coast. This lighthouse is also visible in the direction North, the large opening cut on the side of the cliff: the entrance to a cave. This is known as one of the largest marine caves in the world. For centuries, wolves and sea lions have made it an inevitable stop on their seasonal migration to Alaska and the Bering Strait. Strange atmosphere that gives off this cathedral whose walls navy amplify and reverberate in the loop howls of marine mammals and that of a raging sea rushing in unrestrained any crevice. 
This coast, so often shredded however, offers less relief at times bitter. This is particularly true around the city of Florence. Here we enter a world of sand dunes and impressive. The story of their creation began there more than 50 million years. Upon formation of the Coast Range, glaciers and rivers, wind and rain began to grate youth summits to aggregate them into elements that were once responsible for transporting to the coast. There he remained only to leave work so that the wind sculpts these huge masses of sand dunes and convert them. Now Oregon Dune Park is the largest U.S. and forms of nearly 80 km a wall of sand over 50 meters high. In some places, some dunes can peak at over 150 meters. 
It will not be surprised to learn that this show has moved from enthusiasm writer Frank Herbert. In the sixties, while working for a newspaper in the Washington, drafted in Florence sends precisely to make a documentary devoted to the advancement of the dunes and the means put in place to try to stop their progress. Back in Washington, the article, for obscure reasons, never appear, but inspired by what he experienced on this coast, Frank Herbert began writing what would become a masterpiece of absolute work of literature of anticipation. The novel's title? ... .. "Dune", of course!
meantime and until now the problem of the inexorable advance of the dunes in this region of Oregon has remained more than ever at the heart of fiery controversy. Indeed, while early in the twentieth century is thought the solution would be to plant different varieties of grasses of European origin to stabilize sandy masses, it has also gradually realized that these plants, in proliferating almost uncontrollably, irreversibly altered the landscape and habitat Unique. They moreover threatened with extinction some species such as snowy plover, a tiny wading bird about the size of a sparrow - which can only survive in open areas and sandy. Now, local environment and try out different methods to try to eradicate these herbs have become "crazy." This goes hand pulling in more radical technique such as the use of a bulldozer or .... The massive application of herbicides! 
Generally reviled by conservationists, ATV enthusiasts and other motorized popular here to race down the dunes have even found a good conscience. Some of them do not they proclaim loudly that their sport has become a favorite to act as ecological significance wherever they go, the grass passes away!
(next episode February 21, 2010)
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