A Guagoyo (Northern Chile / Altiplano)
A Heavyweight carrying television has left us at the entrance to Guacoyo, not far from a small recently built: the village school. When the powerful Scania disappeared from sight, all was calm and quiet.
In this stony plain, the village at the fifty houses as if in despair at the horizon, the noose was tightening the Cordillera every day.
The man standing in front of the small school continued unruffled to assemble steel rods for formwork.
Had he seen the truck? Had he noticed that two foreigners had come out? Nothing presaged. Besides our first contact with him was as thick as bushes quenoa around.
Sow a tent .... Yeah. ... Maybe .... Why not? "For
classroom windows were a few faces of children appeared somewhat stunned.
We were dirty, unkempt and our approach weighed down by the weight of the bags would make us an unusual attraction.
But the curious eyes disappeared almost immediately, probably due to the injunction of a teacher eager to resume his class in hand.
As in all schools in the world would be a break around noon. It would be a good time to meet the teacher and tell him of our intention to stay a day or two to Guacoyo.
Perhaps he could also tell us a location suitable for establish our camp.
As strange as it may seem in a vast and wild, choose a site to pitch a tent is not always easy. First, given the total absence of any relief to protect against the wind, finally, for convenience, we never imagined we appropriated a piece of land, not even one night without notice to owners.
The bell announcing the break of noon came to sound. A dozen students followed their teacher immediately came out of the class already ..
Master advanced and we shook hands. He asked immediately our presence in this place but lost confessing his happiness to meet for the first time in eight years two tourists in "his" village.
He was able to do something for our house but no one wanted to say for now because the timing was inappropriate: Manuel Rios, the teacher, dedicated to this effect at noon during which he lavished the village wishing to learn to read and write. The half-dozen women who followed these courses had not waited to enter the master class. Already, they were sitting in a semicircle on small chairs that children were only to desert. Wearing the traditional bowler hat and covered with a large poncho, they seemed to be embedded in their seats with their feet hidden beneath the heavy fabric alpaca.
Meanwhile the master class gradually began to resonate laughter and happy conversation and funny remarks that those singular students may have had against us. However, nothing in their language to us was familiar or understandable: they all spoke in between Aymara.
"You know, our relationships will always be preferred over those that we have with our brothers from Peru or Bolivia, we say later Clara, an adult student of Manuel "
" With the Chileans, who call themselves the "real" our relations are marked by mistrust, suspicion and sometimes hatred. How to react differently to their racist remarks or mocking towards the color of our skin, our small stature or even of our so-called lack of education. The gringos have no consideration for us and their determination to deny our existence and our culture seems ever more rooted. "
Manuel, stayed a little withdrawal, lost nothing of this unexpected rant and improvised to the attention of two unknown but Clara did it was hardly bothered. Besides the expression of approval that the teacher could not consolidate and perhaps even encourage them to speak further.
Although he was in the city, white and teacher in addition, the integration of Manuel in the village seemed to be a success and the confidence needed to show him his head was apparently granted.
manual will explain that he was assigned to Guacoyo as teacher eight years ago, in 1984. A time when he still had no idea the specifics of the task it was to accomplish so far and probably for much longer. Landing at
Guacoyo for a first assignment, it was not trivial. Like many rural Andean communities, Guacoyo is absent from most maps. It must be said that there is no gas station or hotel not more than trade. As to "modern technology", was known here as the clouds of dust raised convoys loaded with computers or televisions traveling to Bolivia.
Anyway, here, electricity is an energy of luxury that we will not allow himself only with the greatest parsimony.
If a generator is actually operational, it is most often used during major events: the carnival procession and the feast of the Patron Saint ... A
Guacoyo, it does not have to police station or town hall. Finally, it is this small school that is the nerve center of the village, this is where we meet, that important decisions are taken. Manuel, as a teacher, was therefore acts of authority.
By the end of his course for adults, we will return to his office, a small room adjoining the classroom. This place also served as his library and lounge. Handbook will also took all his meals. This afternoon, there was no way and no matter as urgent never called outside, we proposed to let go of our baggage and to sit for a moment while he was preparing his food. Whole universe of Manuel was here: a small kitchen ware utensils, a toilet without running water, room count and the monastic room in which we expect a solution to our housing problems derisory. The teacher had just come back beaming with a plate filled with a boil most of which was to consist of lenses.
"The breeding of the llama you love so much? he exclaimed, pointing to the books we had chosen in his library in the meantime "
In fact, the books we were allowed of sifting techniques were related to shearing alpacas and others described with force diagrams, chemical formulas and comparative tests, the different modes of the same parasite camelids.
"As you can see, it takes us away much of the teaching of English, grammar or mathematics.
Over the years, I realized that to become part of the community, it was necessary that I'm closer to the traditions and lifestyle of the people of the Altiplano and especially their economies, based on livestock. An economy that is neither more nor less than the cornerstone of a culture that some people in this country would be reduced to folklore obsolete.
"Today, I gained a lot of knowledge on this subject, moreover, it happens over a week without someone comes to me for trying to remedy problems with production or maintenance of the herd! If for some reason I had to change professions, I think I could become a good pastor! "
As outside, took a nice light tan color and the wind grew in intensity, Manuel remembered that it was time to find a place to spend the night. "I see only one possibility, the teacher finally put out: You will sleep in class! Provided that you have left before nine o'clock, when the Classes begin!
solution suited us quite well because the night promised to be icy. As for dinner, Manuel had we propose to take with him. "I returned to Arica once every fortnight and sometimes solitude weighs on me a bit. I'll be happy to have someone to talk to.
-You saw, for the moment, virtually all the village houses are unoccupied. Their owners are left with their herds in search of "pastures" and go long. Sometimes, when they found a suitable place, they built a shelter or a small stone house and often, they may not to return for a special occasion. This is also like that show delivery and new villages that appeared likely Guacoyo "
It is twenty times and it is night. We put our mattress in the classroom and have walked a little village in the desert before we get to our appointment.
In Manuel, it's good now. In the stove, pieces of llareta are currently smolder. The teacher just lit the kerosene lamp and adjusts the height of the flame
. Around the table there are already two people who have taken up to share the meal. It yal'ouvrier, who was working this morning before school and a young student Manuel. He said his name was Victor Hugo. "It's his first name specifies the instit '! As Manuel turns to the stove, we chat a moment with the boy. He said he will have seven years in three weeks, he is somewhat tired because her day starts early, around five o'clock in the morning. Before coming to school, he says, he must help his mother to gather the flock and will lead him where he is a bit of grass near the Rio Cosapilla. The worker looks at the child, nodding, smiling and continuing. "It's like that here, once children know throwing stones and talk to the llama, it's time to make them work!
"Besides many children her age are already own a nice little herd. Often, at the age of one year, parents give their children two female llamas. Thus, if the animals are good breeding, children are left with a beautiful heritage at the age of marriage. "As we said earlier manual, these people have an extraordinary sense of economy and also show an early age a donation for non-standard calculations and mathematics. "The Aymara save forever but never did spend" is said here.
After the meal, always made with lentils and a few pieces of llama, we suggest to enjoy a manual Pisco Sour before bedtime. Fortunately, we had thought to buy everything needed to make this divine drink before we went to the highlands. This seems to have been a good idea. Manuel is happy and asks him to lead even further preparation. "There is a Chilean who can pass a true Pisco Sour, I'll teach you, he says. "
The wind outside has stopped and the sky, the stars have never been greater.
The office of Manuel became the hottest place and the innermost of the planet and no matter if we crush the mountains, the earth began to tremble and it freezes at the point of a herd of llama petrify ....
For the first time that day, Manuel seems to relax and a faint smile comes to his lips.
From a cupboard he pulled out a box of treasures. Pell-mell therein piled stones strange and colorful insects dried and above all an amazing collection of small pieces of dried earth representing churches and chapels. "These are" my "children who confectionnent. If you put them side by side, there is a preview of virtually all styles of religious buildings that are found in the Altiplano, the schoolteacher is amazed. " Among the miniatures: a reproduction of moving the church Guacoyo. ... Manuel prefers that visibly.
There 'was no risk that they do sleep in today and Manuel did not fear that we can release the class before school starts. At dawn, a rumbling invaded the plain and a large cloud of dust came IRIS daybreak. Fifty llamas come from
leave their pens and go join the Rio. A woman and two children close the convoy. Perhaps the young Victor Hugo made it part of the expedition.
For our part, we start the day by fetching water. We promised the day before to go to Manuel wells to help establish the reserve day.
After a brief toilet, breakfast and a walk around, we see about nine hours to the arrival of students. The beginning of the day is marked by a little ritual somewhat martial. First, some bells announce the rally. Not surprisingly, the students then begin in rows facing the Chilean flag
and bust of the Liberator Bernardo O 'Higgins. Students then begin to attention and salute their teacher and then put into position. The voice and the look of Manuel want this time severe. Besides, the illustrious heroes of Independence is figure dreamer with his eyes riveted to the hypnotic Cordillera. The little party then headed for the dining hall for breakfast. A farmer has swapped poncho and hat for a ball-all-white cap aseptic apron that bears the logo of the pharmaceutical company Pfizer. Then began the distribution of fruits, breads and yogurt. At ten classes begin. Some schools, the teacher's desk and a brand new portrait of President Aylwin are all school supplies, but everything is numbered and struck a stern "State Property". Including the box of chalk.
The class is composed of fifteen pupils 7 to 14 ans.Tous have run at the same time but Manuel adapts its program based on age and maturity of each.
In the books distributed to students, the drawings illustrating the grammar and spelling are family "models" we see where Chilean mom doing the dishes and dad reading the newspaper or watching television. A strange world where people speak English, the houses are square, clothing seyants, functional furniture and the car in the garage ... .. About car, there's just one parked outside the school. It an old Chevrolet sixties. At the rear, two llamas were installed, legs shackled. They are waiting to be tagged and taken to the slaughter side Visviri at the Bolivian border. We will make the trip with them ....
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